Rolex Models Explained

Datejust — the everyday reference point

The Datejust is Rolex’s main dress-and-sport watch. Every other Rolex gets compared to it. Rolex made the first one in 1945. It was the first self-winding watch with a date window. A self-winding watch winds itself as you move your wrist. The date shows in a small window at 3 o’clock. A magnifying lens, called the Cyclops, sits over the date. It makes the date easier to read. The Datejust comes in more metal, dial and bracelet choices. It has more choices than any other Rolex. That includes the smaller Lady-Datejust. It is often someone’s first Rolex. It is often the one they keep longest too. See the current Datejust range on Rolex’s own site for what’s sold new today.

• Case sizes: 28 mm for the Lady-Datejust. Also 31 mm, 36 mm and 41 mm. That is the widest size range Rolex offers.
• Bezel and bracelet: The bezel is fluted (grooved, usually gold) or smooth and domed. The bracelet is Jubilee, Oyster or President, depending on the metal and reference.
• References: 16013, 16014, 16233 and 16234 are common from the 1980s and 90s two-tone era. Two-tone means two metals, like steel and gold, combined. 116233 and 126334 are common steel-and-gold pieces from the 2000s on.
• Who it suits: It works with a suit or a T-shirt alike. It is often a first Rolex too. That is because it spans the widest range of price and condition.

549 Datejusts listed right now. Shop Datejust watches.

Day-Date — the President

The Day-Date is Rolex’s most formal watch. It is the only Rolex line made only in precious metal. That means 18k gold or platinum, never steel. It shows the day of the week and the date. Each has its own dial window. Its nickname, the “President,” comes from a bracelet. That three-piece bracelet launched in 1956. The nickname is not a claim about who wears it. See the current Day-Date range on Rolex’s own site.

• Case sizes: 36 mm on vintage and most pre-owned pieces. 40 mm on the Day-Date II, made from 2008 to 2015. Also 40 mm on the current version since 2015.
• Bezel and bracelet: A fluted bezel is the classic look. Smooth and gem-set versions exist too. The bracelet is always the three-piece President bracelet.
• References: 1803 and 18038 are well-known vintage references from the 1970s and 80s. 118238 and 218238 cover the 2000s and 2010s in yellow gold.
• Who it suits: Someone who wants Rolex’s most formal watch, for a suit-and-tie setting. Also a buyer set on solid gold or platinum, not steel.

42 Day-Dates listed right now. Shop Day-Date watches.

Submariner — the reference dive watch

The Submariner is the dive watch every other dive watch gets compared to. Rolex launched it in 1953. It could handle water 100 m deep, which seemed extreme at the time. Today that depth rating looks modest. The Submariner No Date keeps the dial plain. The Submariner Date adds a date window at 3 o'clock. That window sits under a Cyclops lens.

• Case sizes: 40 mm on references made through 2020. 41 mm on the current version.
• Bezel and bracelet: The bezel turns only one way and has a 60-minute dive scale. Most references since 2010 use ceramic, called Cerachrom; earlier ones use aluminum. The bracelet is always Oyster.
• References: 5513 and 1680 are the classic vintage no-date references. 16610 covers the 1990s and 2000s. 116610LN and 126610LN are the modern black-ceramic pieces you'll see most often pre-owned.
• Who it suits: A watch that can take a real beating. Also Rolex’s most recognized sport model.

50 Submariners listed right now. Shop Submariner watches.

GMT-Master II — the traveler's watch

The GMT-Master II adds a fourth hand and a two-color 24-hour bezel. Together they track a second time zone, apart from the main dial. Rolex built it for Pan Am pilots. It is still the brand's standard travel watch. The bezel's two colors give each version its nickname. Red and blue is called "Pepsi." Black and blue is called "Batman." Red and black is called "Coke."

• Case sizes: 40 mm across every reference, from vintage to current.
• Bezel and bracelet: The bezel is two-tone, in ceramic or aluminum, and covers 24 hours. The bracelet is Oyster or Jubilee.
• References: 16710 is the most common pre-owned reference from the 1990s and 2000s. 116710LN is a current-version piece in black. 126710BLRO and 126710BLNR are current-version pieces in Pepsi or Batman colors. These are the ones requested most.
• Who it suits: Frequent travelers who check a second time zone at a glance. Also anyone chasing one bezel color, like Pepsi or Batman.

53 GMT-Master IIs listed right now. Shop GMT-Master II watches.

Sky-Dweller — second time zone plus a calendar

Rolex introduced the Sky-Dweller in 2012. It is the most complex watch Rolex makes today. It shows a second time zone and an annual calendar. An annual calendar only needs one correction a year. That happens at the end of February. The Ring Command bezel sets both features. You turn the bezel and pull the crown. There is no separate button to press.

• Case sizes: 42 mm. That is the only size it comes in.
• Bezel and bracelet: The bezel is fluted and doubles as the Ring Command control. The bracelet is Oyster, Jubilee, or rubber Oysterflex, depending on the metal.
• References: 326934 is the reference most people mean by "Sky-Dweller" pre-owned. It is in steel with a blue dial. 326933 is the two-tone steel-and-gold version.
• Who it suits: Frequent travelers who also want a calendar, not just a second time zone. Also a buyer who wants Rolex’s newest feature.

42 Sky-Dwellers listed right now. Shop Sky-Dweller watches.

Yacht-Master — the nautical dress-sport line

The Yacht-Master is Rolex's nautical dress-sport watch. It shares some spirit with the Submariner. But it is built for the marina, not the dive boat. Its bezel turns both ways, instead of only one way like a dive bezel. It also comes in more case sizes and metals than the Submariner.

• Case sizes: 35 mm, 37 mm, 40 mm, and 42 mm. It comes in steel, gold, platinum, and two-tone.
• Bezel and bracelet: The bezel turns both ways, in matching metal or ceramic. The bracelet is Oyster or the rubber-and-metal Oysterflex.
• References: 16622 and 116622 are the references seen most often pre-owned. 16622 is in steel and platinum.
• Who it suits: Someone who wants Submariner style with a dressier bezel. Also sailors and non-sailors alike. It wears more like an everyday watch.

23 Yacht-Masters listed right now. Shop Yacht-Master watches.

Yacht-Master II — the regatta chronograph

The Yacht-Master II is a true regatta chronograph. It is a watch built for sailboat races. It has a countdown timer. You can set it to match a race's start sequence. The Ring Command bezel sets the countdown length. The movement inside handles the rest. It is the largest and most complex Yacht-Master.

• Case sizes: 44 mm. That is its only size.
• Bezel and bracelet: The Ring Command bezel has a countdown-flag graphic. The bracelet is Oyster or Oysterflex.
• References: 116680, in steel, and 116681, in two-tone, are the pre-owned references listed most often.
• Who it suits: Sailors who use a race countdown feature. Also collectors who want the most unusual watch in the Rolex sport lineup.

13 Yacht-Master IIs listed right now. Shop Yacht-Master II watches.

Sea-Dweller — the Submariner's deeper-rated sibling

The Sea-Dweller is the Submariner's deeper-rated sibling. Rolex built it for expert divers. They work at extreme depths for long stretches. It has a helium escape valve. This valve releases gas from inside the watch. That happens as the diver returns to normal pressure. Everyday divers never face this problem. That is why the Submariner stays the more common daily watch of the two.

• Case sizes: 40 mm on references made through the mid-2010s. 43 mm on the line since its 2017 refresh.
• Bezel and bracelet: The bezel turns one way and is made of ceramic. The bracelet is Oyster, with a Glidelock clasp extension on current pieces.
• References: 16600 and 16660, nicknamed "Triple Six," are the vintage-leaning pre-owned picks. 126600 is the current 43 mm version.
• Who it suits: Divers who want real professional depth ratings, not just dive-watch looks. Also anyone who wants a Submariner-style watch with a larger case.

17 Sea-Dwellers listed right now. Shop Sea-Dweller watches.

Deepsea — the extreme-depth specialist

The Deepsea takes the Sea-Dweller's diving strength even further. Its Ringlock System case can survive depths of 3,900 meters. That is far deeper than almost any diver will ever go. The watch exists to show off the build. That matters more than solving a real need. It also feels thicker on the wrist than you might expect.

• Case sizes: 44 mm. That is its only size.
• Bezel and bracelet: The bezel turns one way and is made of ceramic. The bracelet is Oyster, with a Glidelock clasp and a fliplock diver extension.
• References: 116660 and 126660 are the two pre-owned versions listed most often.
• Who it suits: A buyer who wants the largest, most extreme Rolex tool watch. Also collectors drawn to the Ringlock System design story.

7 Deepseas listed right now. Shop Deepsea watches.

Explorer — the plainest, most legible Rolex

The Explorer is Rolex's plainest watch, built for one job: telling the time clearly. It has no date and no extra features. Its dial shows large numbers at 3, 6 and 9 o'clock. That makes it easy to read at a glance, even in poor light. It was designed for climbers. It descends from watches worn on the 1953 Everest expedition.

• Case sizes: 36 mm through most of its history. A 39 mm option ran from 2010 to 2021. The line then returned to 36 mm. It added a new 40 mm option in 2023.
• Bezel and bracelet: The bezel is smooth and polished, and it does not turn. The bracelet is Oyster.
• References: 1016 is the classic vintage reference. 14270 and 114270 cover the 36 mm models from the 1990s and 2000s.
• Who it suits: Someone who wants the simplest, most readable Rolex. Also a buyer who prefers a smaller, easier-to-wear case.

1 Explorer listed right now. Shop Explorer watches.

Explorer II — the 24-hour orange-hand Explorer

The Explorer II adds a fixed 24-hour bezel to the plain Explorer design. It also adds an orange GMT hand. Rolex built it for cave explorers. They needed to tell day from night without any natural light. The orange hand and high-contrast dial are what make it stand out.

• Case sizes: 39 mm on the 1655, nicknamed "Steve McQueen," made from 1971 to 1985. 40 mm on 16550 and 16570. 42 mm on the current version since 2011.
• Bezel and bracelet: The bezel is fixed steel, engraved with 24 hours. The bracelet is Oyster.
• References: 1655 is the vintage collector reference. 16550 and 16570 are common pre-owned pieces from the 1990s and 2000s. 216570 is the 42 mm modern version.
• Who it suits: Anyone who wants Explorer simplicity with a useful 24-hour hand. Also a first sport Rolex for someone who skips the dive bezel.

9 Explorer IIs listed right now. Shop Explorer II watches.

Air-King — the aviation-heritage entry point

The Air-King honors Rolex's early aviation watches from the early 1900s. It has long been the plainest way into the Oyster Perpetual sport family. It is also the most affordable way in. The current version has an oversized 3-6-9 dial and a yellow accent. Both are a deliberate nod to that history.

• Case sizes: 34 mm on vintage references through the 1990s and 2000s. 40 mm on the current version since its 2016 relaunch.
• Bezel and bracelet: The bezel is smooth and polished, and it does not turn. The bracelet is Oyster.
• References: 5500 and 14000 are common pre-owned references from vintage through the 1990s. 116900 is the current 40 mm reference.
• Who it suits: Someone who wants sport-Rolex style at a lower price than a Submariner or GMT. Also a buyer drawn to an oversized, easy-to-read dial.

18 Air-Kings listed right now. Shop Air-King watches.

Oyster Perpetual — the entry point

The Oyster Perpetual is Rolex's entry-level watch. It has no date and no extra features. It is built around the waterproof Oyster case. That case gave Rolex its name back in 1926. Recent versions come in bright, playful dial colors. You won't find those colors elsewhere in the lineup.

• Case sizes: 26 mm, 28 mm, 31 mm, 34 mm, 36 mm, and 41 mm. That is the widest size range of any current Rolex line. It spans both older and newer sizes.
• Bezel and bracelet: The bezel is smooth and domed. The bracelet is Oyster.
• References: 1002 and 6564 are vintage no-date picks. 114300 and 176200 cover the 2000s and 2010s. 124300 is the current 41 mm reference.
• Who it suits: A first Rolex bought new rather than pre-owned. It is the lineup’s lowest price. Also anyone who wants a bright, colorful dial the sport lines skip.

95 Oyster Perpetuals listed right now. Shop Oyster Perpetual watches.

Oysterdate — the vintage Datejust ancestor

Oysterdate is Rolex's mid-century name for an Oyster Perpetual with a date window. Rolex sold it under this name before "Datejust" became the standard name. It is a vintage ancestor of the Datejust. Sellers often use the two names to describe the same kind of watch.

• Case sizes: Usually 34 mm, matching the Oyster Perpetual case sizes of its era.
• Bezel and bracelet: The bezel is smooth. The bracelet is Oyster or a riveted-link style, both correct for the period.
• References: These watches are usually dated by case shape and movement type. Not by one memorable number. A movement is the mechanism inside the watch that keeps it running. Ask us for the exact reference if you are comparing two listings.
• Who it suits: Vintage collectors searching for pieces from before the Datejust name. Also anyone comparing “Oysterdate” and “Datejust” listings, curious about their shared history.

63 Oysterdates listed right now. Shop Oysterdate watches.

Oyster Precision — the manual-wind Oyster ancestor

Oyster Precision is a vintage line with no date. The modern Oyster Perpetual descends from it. You wind this watch by hand. It does not wind itself. "Precision" refers to that hand-wound movement inside. This was before Rolex's self-winding Perpetual rotor became standard across the lineup.

• Case sizes: Usually 34 mm on the pre-owned examples listed most often.
• Bezel and bracelet: The bezel is smooth. The bracelet is Oyster or a riveted-link style.
• References: As with Oysterdate, these are usually named by case and movement type. Not by one family number. Ask us for the exact reference on that piece.
• Who it suits: Vintage collectors interested in Rolex’s hand-wound era, before the Perpetual rotor. Also a buyer who wants period-correct 1950s-to-60s proportions.

10 Oyster Precisions listed right now. Shop Oyster Precision watches.

Precision — the general vintage manual-wind name

Precision, on its own, is Rolex's general vintage name for a hand-wound watch. It appears on dials across several old case styles. It does not name one model. Sellers use it as a catch-all term. It covers older, hand-wound Rolex watches from before the Perpetual rotor.

• Case sizes: 31 mm to 34 mm on most pre-owned examples.
• Bezel and bracelet: The bezel is smooth. It comes on a leather strap or a period-correct bracelet, depending on the case.
• References: References vary by case style. Sellers usually date them by movement type and case shape. Not by one family number.
• Who it suits: Vintage collectors who like researching one dial and case combo. Also a buyer looking for the most affordable route into early Rolex history.

14 Precisions listed right now. Shop Precision watches.

Daytona — the racing chronograph

The Daytona is Rolex's chronograph, a watch with a built-in stopwatch. It is named for the Daytona International Speedway and was built for endurance racing. The hand-wound steel models from 1963 to 1988 are prized today. This is most true of the "Paul Newman" dial versions. They are now some of the most sought-after Rolex watches on the pre-owned market.

• Case sizes: 37 mm on the vintage hand-wound version, made from 1963 to 1988. 40 mm on every self-winding version since.
• Bezel and bracelet: The bezel measures speed and is called a tachymetric bezel. Most references use engraved steel; black Cerachrom ceramic has been used since 2016. The bracelet is Oyster.
• References: 6239 and 6263 are the vintage hand-wound collector references. 16520 covers the automatic transition from 1988 to 2000. 116520 and 116500LN are the common modern pre-owned pieces.
• Who it suits: Collectors chasing chronograph function and racing heritage. Also a buyer who knows this reference is hardest to find at retail. That is why the pre-owned market matters most here.

41 Daytonas listed right now. Shop Daytona watches.

Milgauss — the antimagnetic specialist

The Milgauss is Rolex's antimagnetic watch. That means it resists damage from strong magnetic fields. Rolex built it for engineers and technicians who work near this kind of field. The name means "1,000 gauss." A gauss is a unit that measures magnetic field strength. And 1,000 is the level this watch can resist. Its lightning-bolt second hand is its best-known detail.

• Case sizes: 40 mm across the modern references seen most often pre-owned.
• Bezel and bracelet: The bezel is smooth or fluted, depending on the reference. The bracelet is Oyster.
• References: 1019 is the vintage collector reference. 116400 and 116400GV, which has a green-tinted crystal, are the modern pieces.
• Who it suits: Anyone drawn to a technical, less common Rolex feature. Also collectors who want the green crystal or lightning-bolt hand as a talking point.

4 Milgausss listed right now. Shop Milgauss watches.

Cellini — the dedicated dress line

Cellini is Rolex's dress-only line. It has no Oyster case and no rotating bezel. It is worn on a leather strap, not a metal bracelet. Rolex built it for wear with a suit, not for sport. It stands apart from every other family on this page, by design.

• Case sizes: Usually 39 mm across the most recent Cellini version.
• Bezel and bracelet: The bezel is fluted or smooth, depending on the reference. It comes on a leather strap, not a metal bracelet.
• References: 5310 is a common older reference. 50509 and 50519 are typical of the current Cellini Time and Date.
• Who it suits: Someone who wants a Rolex that reads purely as a dress watch, strap included. Also a buyer who skips the metal bracelet on purpose.

7 Cellinis listed right now. Shop Cellini watches.

Land-Dweller — Rolex's newest architecture

The Land-Dweller is Rolex's newest model line. Rolex introduced it in 2024. It is built around a new in-house part called the Dynapulse escapement. An escapement is the part of a watch that keeps its ticking steady. The Land-Dweller also has an integrated Flat Jubilee bracelet. That means the bracelet flows directly from the case. It is the biggest new watch design Rolex has released in years. It is still becoming common in the pre-owned market.

• Case sizes: 36 mm and 40 mm at launch.
• Bezel and bracelet: The bezel is fluted. The bracelet is the integrated Flat Jubilee. It is a first for this design on a Rolex line.
• References: 127234 and 127334 are among the references from its 2024 launch.
• Who it suits: Early adopters interested in Rolex’s newest movement design. Also anyone who wants an integrated-bracelet, sport-dress watch. One outside the usual Datejust or Day-Date mold.

3 Land-Dwellers listed right now. Shop Land-Dweller watches.

Case sizes, at a glance

Rolex case sizes range from 26 mm to 44 mm across the families above. The smallest is the Oyster Perpetual, at 26 mm. The largest are the Yacht-Master II and Deepsea, at 44 mm. Almost every size in between shows up somewhere in the modern or vintage catalog.

Here is a simple rule of thumb:

• 34–36 mm reads as a classic, vintage-leaning size.
• 39–41 mm is the modern default for most sport and dress lines.
• 42 mm and up is for a few tool watches. Each is built around one feature or depth rating.

The Air-King brings the most size questions. The current reference, 116900, has been made since 2016 and measures 40 mm. Vintage Air-Kings from the 1990s and 2000s measure 34 mm. They wear clearly smaller and dressier. A size may not be listed above for your family. If so, just ask us directly. Pre-owned stock varies by size within a family from day to day.

How to read a reference number

Rolex reference numbers got longer as the catalog grew. Four-digit references came before any standard bezel-color code. They ran from the 1950s to 1970s, like 1016 or 5513. Five-digit references added sapphire crystals. They ran from the late 1970s to 1999, like 16610 or 16700. These are the most common vintage-to-modern pieces you will see pre-owned. Six-digit references have been standard since 2000. Since about 2010, most also carry a letter code for the bezel color.

• LN means black.
• LV means green.
• BLRO means blue-and-red.
• BLNR means blue-and-black.

These codes are what give references like 126710BLRO their nicknames. For what those nicknames mean, see our Rolex nicknames guide.

Want to go deeper into how collectors group references by era? Hodinkee’s Reference Points series is a good next stop. We do not publish serial numbers online. A serial number is unique to one physical watch. We will show it to you directly on any piece you look at.